Skin Needling Treatments Remove Wrinkles

What is the Derma Roller or Skin Needling?

Recently, while walking around at the 2009 Beauty Expo in Long Beach, CA, I noticed a large number of booths selling these small rolling devices, covered with many short needles. Curious whether these were new parenting tools to scare unruly children or for skincare, I decided to research it further. The cosmetic representatives claimed these new facial rollers could increase collagen production and reduce wrinkles.

The derma roller is a very small rolling device that contains 192 micro points made of surgical steel. While it goes by different names, ‘skin needling,’ ‘dermaroller,’ or ‘meso roller,’ among many others, it appears to be a simple and natural method that promises to prevent skin aging, restore collagen, smooth out scars, pitted skin, and stretch marks - or your money back in some cases.

Research On Skin Needling

The skin needling device is used along with your normal skincare routine to remove acne scars, stretch marks, wrinkles, fine lines. Representatives say it can even help with big pores, black heads, and white heads. This micro needling or skin needling anti-aging technique is also used to perform collagen induction therapy (CIT). Studies show that when this device is rolled over the skin, it creates small puncture wounds which cause the body to produce collagen in an attempt to heal the skin. Our collagen production falls dramatically after about age 35 or so.

How the Derma Roller Works

Published instructions say when you roll this device over the skin it creates small puncture wounds into the top layer of the skin. This puncturing will then cause a type of wound-healing reaction for the dermal layer to begin production of collagen fibers, elastin, and other skin cells that helps to fill in lines, wrinkles, remove stretch marks and fill in deep pitted scars – also allowing the derma roller to be a great acne scar treatment.

In addition, the derma roller allows for optimum absorption of any anti-aging cream you may use afterwards. Each time you use the derma roller, the collagen building effects continue for weeks- smoothing stretch marks, acne scars, fine lines and wrinkles.

Unlike other skin rejuvenating techniques, the derma roller doesn’t require downtime for healing. And, unlike chemical or laser peels, the derma roller can be used safely by women and men of color because it doesn’t affect skin pigmentation.

The Studies

In 1994, Dr. Philippe Simonin, a Swiss Dermatologist, performed a study on 600 people divided into two groups - the skin-aging group and the scar reduction group. Published results found that in the skin aging group there was a 40% significant improvement and an impressive 60% improvement in scar reduction group.

Another doctor, Dr. Andre Camirand, a plastic surgeon from Canada, found that skin needling improved the texture and depression of scars and also improved over-all skin color and texture. He also found this remodeling process can go on up to 12 months from each treatment.

Further study results by plastic surgeons and dermatologists claim in that addition to reducing the appearance of sun damage and wrinkles, (such as crows feet), skin needling can help lessen or remove stretch marks, cellulite, acne scars, surgical scars and smooth out pitted skin and dimpling.

In addition, it allows maximum absorption of your best wrinkle creams or any anti aging creams. Each rolling session can stimulate collagen to reduce wrinkles and scars - like a mini-instant face lift.

Rejuvenating Your Face

Facial rejuvenation is the term used to encompass all forms of restoring a youthful appearance to the face. It includes the broad categories of:

• Injectables (Botox® & fillers) (See BotoxFacts.ca for additional uses of Botox®);
• Resurfacing procedures (laser treatment, microdermabrasion & chemical peels);
• Surgical rejuvenation (brow lifts, eyelid surgery; facelifts, nose jobs, face and chin augmentation, and neck lifts);
• Topical tretinoin and tazarotene which reverse sun damage and enhance collagen production.

The normal changes associated with facial aging are the result of both:

• intrinsic (age related fat and bone loss known as atrophy, and skin laxity for example) and
• extrinsic factors (like ultraviolet light / sunlight, chemicals, and smoking).

These factors contribute to biological changes associated with age and create predictable patterns of facial change. An over-simplistic analogy is mimicked by the changes in the helium balloon your child wouldn’t let you throw away. With time there is loss of internal volume (gas in this example) and as a result the covering loses its taught shape, luster, and becomes wrinkled. Moreover, there is a marked change in shape of the entire structure. Naturally, similar changes on your face can be highly distressing especially since many available treatments are being promoted.

Physicians can treat facial aging three ways: through reduction (making the skin “fit”), augmentation (“stretching” the skin back to normal) or a combination of the two.

When it comes to choosing a rejuvenation procedure, the severity of the facial aging must be considered. Here’s a review:

• Wrinkles (individual fine or deep rhytids) are managed well by Botox® or injectable fillers. Although other agents are touted to produce similar results, Botox® is currently unsurpassed in its ability to soften or eliminate wrinkles caused directly by the action of underlying muscles of facial animation. (Botox Facts has more information for you)
• For wrinkles that may not be contributed to directly by facial movement or for depressed scars; superficial or deep fillers (ranging from collagen, hyaluronic acid and poly-L-lactic acid to silicone particles and bone cement and even your own injected fat). These can also be used for wrinkles, scars, and soft tissue augmentation (most commnly lip augmentation).
• When you have wrinkles involving larger areas or if it’s related to sun-damage, the underlying problem commonly lies in the biological changes in the skin itself. Here rejuvenation methods such as laser resurfacing, microdermabrasion, and chemical peels act to restore some of the lost intrinsic biologic properties of the skin and can provide a significant restorative change over these large areas. These treatments use light associated heat, physical sanding, or chemicals, respectively, to remove the surface layers of the skin and hence stimulate a regenerative-like process. Many common skin creams advertised to improve facial wrinkles contain glycolic or other acids used in light chemical peels to help improve the taughtness of your treated skin.
• As the severity of skin aging increases, injection and resurfacing procedures may be combined themselves or with surgical rejuvenation (possibly in a staged fashion).
• Surgical management of more severe forms of facial aging can be through an additive (implants), reductive (excisions or tucks), or combined approach. Modern rhinoplasties (“nosejobs”) are a good example where combined approaches of reduction by excision and augmentation through cartilage grafting are employed. As these procedures typically address changes in the three-dimensional volume (deep structures) and in the skin (envelope or cover) they obviously provide the greatest extent of rejuvenation and can address the greatest degrees of facial change. That said, they do come with a limited amount of scaring and the possibly some temporary numbness. Often these scars, created in lines of election, are fine and highly acceptable with some rare exceptions.
• Topical tretinoin and tazarotene can improve fine lines and the general appearance of the skin. The down-side is that you need to continue to use these topical treatments in order to maintain its effect. Sometimes, tretinoin and tazarotene can be combined with the procedures listed above to enhance the effects.

Although you may hear more and more about treating aging skin with the procedures and products mentioned above, we all know that the best form of care is through modification of your exposure to the extrinsic “modifiable” risk factors, like sun exposure (See Skin Cancer Guide for more information).

About the author:
Dr Bryce J Cowan BSc MSc MD PhD FRCS(C) (Reconstructive & Cosmetic Plastic Surgeon, The Skin Care Centre, Vancouver)